Eerder hinge clamp levers Drillium Asymetric design

The stainless steel Eerder hinge clamp levers with the Asymetric drillium design are compatible with the original Brompton M8x45 mm bolts, the M8 x 50 and 55 mm SpedDial bolts (including the rest of the SpedDial system). And probably match with every other (M8) 13 mm hex head bolt, for instance titanium bolts. The Eerder drillium hinge clamp levers can be combined with the mathing drillium style QR replacement lever and rear frame latch. They're not yet included, sorry if some of the photos are confusing.

Note: The levers come with two different sets of screws. One set of tiny M3 grub screws for which you need a 1.5mm allen key (you can find it ao. in the Eerder Toollkit) and one set of M3 hex socket cap screws for which you need a 2.5mm allen key which is inside a Brompton Toolkit and basicly every set of allen keys. The latter look more industrial and can be convenient depending on your toolkit and if you want to take them off for traveling. The choice is up to you.

Note: the latest edition SpedDial bolts have a dimple in the centre of the hexagonal head (visible from the outside) and don't match with these levers. You can add two M8x50 bolts to your order to make it work and optionally a flaring punch if you haven't got a punch with a pointy end (like a centre punch)

Assembly of the hinge clamp levers:

1. Add two 8 mm washers per bolt with the sharp edges towards the bolt head. Apply a bit of bearing grease or chain oil to both washers and the threads of the bolt.
2. Add the aluminium clamp plate.
3. Screw the bolt into the frame hinge as far as you can do by hand. Then add the handle. As the laser beam diverges a little when cutting, the hexagonal holes are slighlty but marginally wider at one end, so there's always an easy way to get the hinge clamp levers on and a harder way. I suggest putting the easiest side on first ;-) Which is with the little screw pointing in counter clockwise position. Don't tighten the screw yet! Apply the usual torque to the handle to close and tighten the hinge
4. next change the orientation of the handle if you wish a different end position and tighten the M3 grub screw with a 1.5mm allen key. Be carefull, do not overtighten this tiny screw! Or use a 2.5mm key for the socket cap screws. The end position of the clamp lever on the handlebar stem can best be about vertical to not rub the rear pockets of a front bag while steering.

Note: The M8 bolt heads are not always 100% in line with the threaded part of the bolt, so you might have the handle not perfectly parallel to the frame, in that case try another orientation of the lever on the bolt head. That will probably solve the 'issue'.

Assembly of the QR lever:

See photos and instructions here

Assembly of the rear frame latch:

See photos and instructions here

Specs:

• Material: 304 stainless steel
• Laser cut out of 6mm thick cold rolled plate, machine tumbled for roudning off the edges and the final finish, the fine lines of the laser beam are still visible on the sides, I like the indrustrial and pure look of that so you can still see how it's made.
• 69 mm long hinge clamp levers (plastic original 65mm and aluminium original 63 mm)
• A2 stainless steel M3 allen grub screws for locking the levers
• A2 stainless steel M3 socket cap screws for locking the levers
• 4x stainless steel M8 washers
• Weight: 54 gram for the comlete set (including all hardware, excluding the optional M8 bolts)